Mountain Information: Matterhorn (3) [Photos]
Related Articles: Mountain Information: Matterhorn (1) [Photos]
Mountain Information: Matterhorn (2) [Photos]
Mountain Information: Matterhorn (IV) [Photos]
Mountain Information: Matterhorn (V) [Photos]
God preferred heavy infantry to translate from Alpinist Vol.16, Mountain Profile, The Matterhorn text/Herve Barmasse, Luca Maspes
From Bonati to the 1980s
In 1965, the Matterhorn peaked its 100th anniversary. Many climbers focused on it, including Italian Walter Bonatti. For many years, he was considered to be the best all-around mountaineer in the world. He decided to climb the Matterhorn's most difficult rock wall in his harshest season as a farewell performance for his climbing career.
Although Kaspar Mooser and Victor Imboden had attempted as early as 1928, no one had yet completed the straight northbound route. Bonetti had previously received the baptism of K2 and GIV, and opened up many new routes in the Mont Blanc mountain range. He already had enough strong will and enough superb skills to succeed where everyone failed. The idea that he climbed the north wall and went straight up has been around for a long time, but only after his first three-day attempt with his partners Gigi Panei and Alberto Tassotti failed due to bad weather. He decided to complete this route alone.
Since no one would be willing to accompany him to try again, Bonati chose solo - of course, after careful consideration. The media has long been repeatedly referring to the “difficulties†of going straight ahead. Coupled with the atmosphere created by the centennial celebrations, it is difficult to guarantee that no other climbers share the same ideas. So on February 18th, Bonatti invited three friends to join in, thinking that they just went skiing as usual. Then under the cover of a huge rock, Bonatti quietly replaced the equipment and set out on his own. After six consecutive days of struggle with loneliness, low temperature and technical difficulties, Bonati completed the proposition that only a handful of mountaineers had thought about: single + anti-season + new route, completing the northern wall.
Photo: Walter Bonatti has put a strong end to his brilliant career by using the anti-season solo Matterhorn to go straight up the north. Photo/Walter Bonatti
Although the new climbing equipment and climbing techniques of that era helped Bonatti a lot, there is no denying that his courage, determination and perseverance are the primary factors of success. After personally trying to repeat this route, Reinhold Messner said: "I could have said that I was going because the weather was bad, but in fact, I was down because I could no longer climb upwards. The guy who climbed into this rock face alone is simply a man of God." On March 8-11, 1994, Catherine Destivelle, the female mountaineer, completed the first repetition of the Bonati route. , And Messner's words are the most appropriate evaluation of her importance for this beautiful winter solo.
Pic Muzio is a tall rock columnar mountain on the right hand side of the south wall. In the summer of Bonatti’s opening of the north wall, three days were spent by Lecco Spiders Giuseppe Lafranconi and Annibale Zucchi. This opened up the first line on this pillar. It was originally done by climbing the equipment. This route, especially in the first half of the rock, had poor texture and frequent rockfalls. On the other hand, on July 14, 1970, another Italian team - Leo Cerruti, Gianni Calcagno, Carmelo di Petello (Carmelo di Pietro) and Guido Machetto – climbing a rocky column along a new route to the left of the Spedes route, and the rocky condition of this route is a rare ideal (only Matterhorn); there are views that the Flower Arete they created has the best rock formations on this mountain.
Thirteen years later, the brilliant Slovenian hermit Francek Knez opened another new line with very similar geographical features on the left side of the Spedes route. "The overall condition of the rock is bad, but fortunately, it is ideal for difficult pitches." Koeniz commented on him on June 16-17, 1983 with Tone Galuh and Tusik Jacques. (Tucic Jaka) New route to complete together - "Three Musketeers." In the platform below the steep walls, the team was blizzarded and was forced to undergo a long emergency descent. Through the top of the east wall, he fled back to the Hornli hut.
The early seventies was the era of cliff climbing. In 1972, the mountaineering industry once again set off a wave of climbing on the North Wall. The first Japanese, Masahiro Furukawa, Masaru Miyagawa, and Yoshinori Okitsu opened a new upright route on the right side of the Bonati route, using seven camps and considerable studs and expansion pegs. One month later, on August 11-13, former Czechoslovakia Zdislav Drlik, Leos Horka, and Bohumil Kadlcik and Vaclav Prokes has opened up perhaps the steepest route of the Matterhorn so far. Their route began in the middle of the bottom of the North Wall. The last 250 meters cut into the Schmidt line at an almost vertical angle. Nobody has been able to repeat it. On the one hand this may be due to the fact that it does not differ much from the Bonati route. The Zmutt Nose also has potentially many unfinished routes waiting for people to discover.
In January 1978, locals from the valley in Italy returned to the stage of climbing the Matterhorn. Before that, there were only four attempts to climb on the west wall. This is also the most remote and least known aspect of the Matterhorn. Alpine guides Marco Barmasse, Innocenzo Menabreaz, Leo Pession, Rolando Albertini, Austrian Augusto Tamone, Arturo and Oreste Squinobal successfully climbed the uphill route opened by Dacquiin and Odin in 1962 during the winter. This is the first repetition of the route after it was first posted. However, the blizzard on the day of the summit day dropped two meters of snow in Breyer and Zermatt. As a result, Albertini was killed when he withdrew, and a victory that was originally celebrated was replaced by a wound in the blink of an eye.
Although the climb ended in tragedy, Marco Bamaase, the author's own father, began his crazy adventure on the Matterhorn. He started on this mountain, especially in Italy, and completed many new routes and numerous first winter climbs. He used his actions to prove that with a little imagination, he can find a lot of new things worth doing. try. On March 10, 1983, he and Gianni Gorret, Rio and Luigi Pession completed the first winter climb on the Diffa Ridge. In the same year, on September 28th of the same year, Vittorio De Tuoni opened the Pic Muzio southeast ridge route, a limestone course with a "not so perfect" rock texture. One day later, Renato Casarotto and Giancarlo Grassi opened a vertical columnar mountain route directly to the south wall under the Dindal peak, and then in the second year In March, Bamase, Grete and Augusto Tamone achieved the first winter ascent of this route. On November 13, 1983, he opened a new south wall straight line with Di Turone and Valter Cazzanelli. He also met three at the height of about 4300 meters at the bottom of the boulder. Rock antelope.
On September 11, 1985, Bamasse completed the single crossing of the four main ridges of the Matterhorn in 15 hours: first along the Frigion Ridge (the first solo by this route was completed by Bonatti), under the Hornli Ridge, through From the bottom of the north wall to the summit of the Cimet ridge, then descend from the Lion's ridge. (Seven years later, on July 19, 1992, Hans Kameland and Diego Wellig, two other cattlemen, pushed the plan even further, in less than 24 hours. Four summits of the Matterhorn in a row: on the Ctom Ridge, under the Hornley Ridge, on the Frigion Ridge, under the Lion Rock Ridges, and then from the Lion Rock Ridge, under the Hornley Ridge, and then back and forth to Hornli The ridgeline route.) On Christmas 1987, Bamase, Kazanelli and Nicola Corradi completed the first winter climbing of the flower ridge course. The pioneering exploration that Bamaase completed during his career as a guide and as an independent climber truly reflects the tradition of the climbers from Valtournche, the eternal protagonist of the Matterhorn.
One of the last highlights of this period with so much winter ascent and first ascent is that from February 21st to March 1st, 1983, by Michal Pitelka from the former Czechoslovakia. ), Joseph Rybicka and Jiri Smid opened a new route to the North Wall. This new route began on the North Pillar traditional route, and finally at the shoulder of the Hornley Ridge course at Wimbledon's first ascension. It was mentioned because it was like many climbs in the late 20th century. It was like a bond. , connecting the past and present of mountaineering.
Serving Trolleys,Gold Bar Cart,Rolling Bar Cart,Silver Bar Cart
Jiangmen Junerte Stainless Steel Kitchenware Co.,Ltd , https://www.jetkitchenware.com