Hans Kammerlander - Hans Kammerland: A milestone of anaerobic climbing
Hans Kammerlander - Hans Kammerland
Born in South Tyrol in 1956
He cooperated with Reinhold Messner on seven 8,000-meter-high mountains, including a 1986 crossing between the 1st and 2nd peaks of the Shurebru, which took 8 days and was all above 7500. .
Kammerlander climbed 2,000 routes in the Alps (including the Grands Jorasses North Wall I, the Matterhorn North Wall, and the Eiger North Wall).
In 1992, he set a new record - 23 hours and 26 minutes to climb up and down the Matterhorn 4 times.
In 1996, he boarded Mount Everest and returned to BC in only 23.5 hours. When he returned, he skied down. Before Dengfeng, he first made a phone call to Xishabangma. He said: “The day I reached the summit was on May 10, the day of the Everest Mountain. The weather was very cold, with minus 40 degrees, and the wind was very large. My wife and I camped at the camp at 7400 m. The next day I spent 3 hours going to the summit. I used the snowboard in the camp to ski down from 7,400 meters. This was the last test equipment. I can finally believe it and I can go to the bead. The peak he said about the fall of Mount Everest was like this: I first slid down a slope of about 300 meters (55 degrees), then took off my skis and put on crampons, repeated several times, down to 7700 meters and never took off my skis again. ."
He never used oxygen to climb the mountain. He thought that since the historic efforts of Messner and Habeler, oxygen had been abandoned by mountaineering.
Kammerlander decided to board all the 8000-meter peaks when he joined a truly expert club.
In the summer of 2000, he was going to climb the most dangerous K2. In 1999 he was only 150 meters to the top, and the danger of avalanche made him retreat. Since 1998, no one has ever reached the top of K2.
Mountaineering experience:
1982～ Cho Oyo (South Slope)
1984-Gauscher Brumbu 1, 2, Gasherbrum I & II (Historic crossing)
1985 - Dhaulagiri Dhaulagiri, Annapurna (Northwest Wall) Annapurna
1986 - Makalu Makalu, Lhotse Lhotse
1988 - Cerro Torre (up and down 17 hours)
1989～Poincenot
1990~Nanga Parbat, Nanga Parbat Peak (under ski)
1992 - Matt Matterhorn (24 hours, 4 times), Shivling
1993~Ama Dablam
1994 - Broad Peak (from 7,000 meters of ski)
1996 - Shisha Pangma (from 7,400 meters ski)
1996 Everest Everest (skiing)
1998～Kanchenjunga (from 7,400 meters skiing)
1999 - Korgri Peak K2 (150 meters difference peaked)
Born 1956 in Acereto / South Tyrol.
The adept of Reinhold Messner, together they have climbed seven 8,000 metre summits including the traverse between Gasherbrum I and II in 1986. The traverse took 8 days, always on an altitude above 7,500 metres. This climb is considered by Messner, to be his supreme Himalayan achievement. In 1991, Messner and Kammerlander teamed up again, and made a climbing / hiking travel around South-Tyrol, 1,200 km climbing and gaining 100,000 metres.
All in all, Kammerlander has been crossed over 2,000 routes in the Alps and Dolmites. (Including Grandes Jorasses North Wall, Matterhorn North Wall and Eiger North Wall).
In 1992, he sets another record by climbing Matterhorn up and down four times in 23 hours and 26 minutes.
In 1996 he climbs Everest in the record time of 23,5 hours, base-camp and back. The descent was partly done on ski.
As a warming up and to acclimatize before Everest, Hans scaled off Shisma Pangma: -"I did it on that very day, when all these people died on Everest - May 10. It was terribly cold - at least 40 degrees below zero, the Strongest wind. My wife and I set the camp at the altitude of 7,400 m., and the next day I reached the summit in 3 hours. I left my skis in the camp, so I did the ski-descent from 7,400 m. It Was the final testing of my equipment, and now I could trust it. The next point was Everest".
His comment on the ski-descent of Everest: - "I skid down the first 300 meters at a gradient of 55 degrees, then I removed my skis and used my crampons several times until I reached 7,700 m. Then I put my skis back on And never removed them".
Kammerlander has never used supplemental oxygene on any of his climbs, in an interview he puts his view on the use of supplemental oxygene: - "After Messner and Habeler"s historical endeavor, I don"t justify the use of oxygen because I consider it No longer acceptable in this sport".
Kammerlander has now decided to climb all mountains above 8,000 metres, if succeeding he will be joining the very few climbers that have managed this before...
In his third attemt on K2, Hans made it to the summit together with Jean Christophe Lafaille on July 22, 2001, they both was asked to have climbed solo, but teamed up together and summited through the Cesen route. Hans also brought his skis to The summit to try become the first person to make a complete ski Descent of K2. However the condition where bad and after 400 meters he decided to stop. - "When I saw a Korean climber falling down the wall, passing just few meters away Me, I took my skis off". Still he belives a ski-descent is possible: - "The wall was a stiff 60 degrees, it would had been like skiing on a bell tower roof". -"Somebody will do it, but He"ll need a lot of ability and a whole of luck. Skiing down K2 must be done in a honest way, as I always tried to behave. I heard of people who reached Everest top with plenty of oxygen and many Sherpas, lately. I heard Sherpas carrying skis for them as well. This means corrupting the top top of the world to an easy seve n thousand peak".
When returning home from K2 during a press conference he stated he will not go for Manaslu that would be his last 8,000 meter mountain to climb to have completed all 14 mountains above 8,000 meters. - "Too many tragedies I lived on Manaslu, I will not Face my bad dreams". On Manaslu, during his 1991 expedition, his friends Karl Grossrubatscher and Friedl Mutschlechner died in the plan to summit. However, he will continue climbing and nothing was said about attempting other 8,000 meter mountains again in the future. - "I can go on living with 13 tops instead of 14. There are so many beautiful mountains in the world I can climb now. Not Manaslu".
SELECTED CLIMBS
1982 - Cho Oyo (South Wall)
1984 - Gaherbrum I & II (traverse)
1985 - Dhaulagiri
1985 - Annapurna (North West Wall)
1986 - Makalu
1986 - Lhotse
1988 - Cerro Torre (17 hours up & down)
1989 - Poincenot
1990 - Nanga Parbat (ski descent)
1992 - Matterhorn (up & down 4 times in 24 hours)
1992 - Shivling
1993 - Ama Dablam
1994 - Broad Peak (ski descent from 7,000 metres)
1996 - Shisha Pangma (ski descent from 7.400 metres)
1996 - Everest (ski-descent)
1998 - Kanchenjunga (ski-descent from 7.400 metres)
1999 - K2 (abandoned 150 metres from the summit due to avalanche risk)
1999 - Mutztagh Ata
2000 - K2 (attempt)
2001 - Ogre (failed)
2001 - K2 (through Cesen route)
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